Caring for your ride

Now that you finally have your ride, I bet people are catching you just standing by and admiring it like a schoolboy checking out the hot neighborhood babe. It happens and you should savor the indescribable feeling of owning a gleaming set of wheels. Now to deal with the boring bit (not for me though as I love to read, even if it is an instruction manual!) go through the owner’s manual from cover to cover and make a mental note of the important bits, namely the service intervals and the maintenance tips that owners should follow to keep their rides as good as new.

Running in

This is a contentious topic in biking circles and some believe that modern machines come run in from the factories and you can go TWO (throttle wide open) from the get go. Many though still swear by the time honored tradition of putting the machine through its paces by going easy on the throttle for the first few thousand on the odo and let the mating parts of the engine, brakes, tires and other components bed in. If this happens properly, you should have an engine which runs smoother and lasts longer with optimum fuel efficiency and performance. While I have appended some links at the end of this post on the whole running in business, my advice to you is to follow what the instruction manual says about running in to the T, nothing more and nothing less. After all, the manufacturer who made the machine is expected to know it best and crucially, it makes much easier should any warranty claim arise in the future. Below is a snapshot of the running in section from my Yamaha R15 manual. Its pretty simple and easy to follow and most contemporary bikes will have a similar process. If you want to take a leaf out of my book, while I stuck to the engine RPM limits (tachometer) and speeds for the most part, I was not shy of opening the throttle (albeit for short bursts) and giving her the stick once in a while. Especially for high revving sports bikes, I feel it helps for the engine to explore the upper reaches of the powerband in the initial kms, the trick is not to overdo it. Ensure that you do a mix of highway+city+ghat (if you are lucky to be living in Bangalore/Pune) riding as it exposes the bike to different riding conditions with frequent speed variations and gear changes. Once the running in period is complete as per the manual, its TWO time!

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/owning-car/67729-article-how-run-your-new-car.html

http://www.motorcycleextremist.com/Motorcycle-Engine-Break-in-the-Right-Way!.html

Caring for your ride

This is a comprehensive topic and for the finicky lot (myself included) no amount of TLC is enough for their precious rides. Go ahead and indulge yourself if you have the time and passion to spare but the following quick tips and the links below should keep your machine ticking over for many miles.

Engine oil and fuel

Again the owner’s manual should be the bible here. Ensure that you are sticking to the grade specified by the manual (the service centre will ensure this at least for the initial free servicing but push pricey options in the same grade – politely decline if your budget does not permit) A pricey synthetic option over regular mineral ones (same grade) is not mandatory unless the manual specifies, especially if the service intervals are frequent (synthetics last longer). In fact, given an option, its best to run on mineral for the first 8 – 10k kms and then switch to synthetic as it may result in a better run in engine. Be particular about the drain intervals: apart from ensuring warranty, all modern engines ask of you is to have the oil replaced periodically - not doing that is sacrilege. Most manuals will specify both distance and time (3/6 months) intervals for the next service: do not neglect this even if you haven’t clocked enough on the odo as oil starts degrading the moment its poured inside the engine and needs to be replaced if the time interval is achieved, irrespective of the distance completed. Moving on to the topic of fuel (petrol or gasoline in this case) I don’t need to tell you how critical it is to run on clean stuff. While we do not oversee the refining and transportation of the stuff to fuel pumps, we can certainly choose which pump to go to, at least in the city. If a pump looks deserted most of the time or something looks amiss, its usually for a good reason – there are certain fuel pumps in all cities which are notorious for peddling adulterated fuel or cheating customers by short fueling tricks. Look for COCO (company owned company operated) outlets of any of the state owned refineries; I have a preferred set of pumps in my city where I generally refuel from and go with my eyes closed to any Shell outlet anywhere (for those living in Bangalore, Pune and Chennai) Look for the bigger outlets while hitting the highways. Don’t wait for the fuel tank to go into reserve before refueling, refuel the moment the level drops below 25% capacity. Running on fumes is the quickest way to fry your fuel pump (in a fuel injected model) needing a costly replacement.

Cleaning and lubing the bike and the drive chain

If you care for your ride the least that you would do is to give it a good wash and often, and that’s partly because its pretty much the only thing that does not need expertise, or so we think. Washing (or hosing it down as some do) a motorcycle is different from washing a car; a bike (especially performance ones) is an exposed piece of machinery with everything from the drive chain to the radiator (for liquid cooled ones) to the wires running down the instrument cluster, in plain view and open to the elements. While our rides are ‘waterproof’ to an extent and they can happily ride through rain and slush, they are not designed to withstand modern pressure washers which can wreak havoc with the delicate radiator fins for example, by bending them and fouling with the electrical systems. Be gentle, use a couple of buckets of water (one for the soap water and the other with clean water to rinse the sponge in) with branded car shampoo (no detergents or household cleaners please as they are not formulated for use on automotive paint surfaces), sponge and a microfiber cloth to rinse off the damp surface. Do not do this often (I do it once a fortnight or when the bike gets really dirty) since you may do more damage to painted surfaces by leaving swirl marks if you are not doing it right and wash and dry in the shade as direct sunlight will leave water spots since it will dry water faster than you can pat it down with a cloth. Do not wash immediately after a hard ride; wait for the bike to cool down to avoid splashing water on a hot engine and start the bike after you are through with the wash and wipe ritual to drive out any residual moisture. Most manuals advise that the chain be cleaned and lubed every 500 kms and as I had mentioned earlier, its always good to follow what the manual says. As for me, since I live in Bangalore and my bike sees more highways and ghats with perfect tarmac than dustbowls, I tend to clean the chain every 1000 kms and apply lube every 500 kms or if it seems dry/have been ridden in the rains. Modern day ‘O-ring’ type chains come with lubricant inside the rollers sealed from the factory, but the joints between links still need to be lubed. 

Tip – You can combine the chain cleaning + lubing process along with your bike washing ritual. Spray the chain cleaner/wipe the chain with kerosene or similar solvent before washing the bike. Take the bike out for a quick spin after washing so that the chain is warm (helps in absorbing the lube inside the rings as the chain cools - you will waste precious lube by spraying it onto a cold chain), ensure that you put the bike on the centre/paddock stand and turn the ignition off before you start lubing – this is important as many a finger have been lost while lubing the chain with the engine in gear! Spray the lube lightly (or use gear oil if you are on a budget – you can apply it with a thin paint brush) directly on the O rings and leave the bike parked for a few hours (preferably overnight) for the lube to seep in. A dry chain will make for a noisy ride and will also wear your sprocket out in addition to wearing themselves out sooner. I use Yamalube/Motul chain cleaner and lube (sold separately). There are several brands available and you can pick one which suits your budget. Do wear protective gardening gloves while handling the chain!

http://motorbikewriter.com/top-10-tips-washing-motorcycle/

The better informed amongst us also adjust the chain slack, take apart the brake calipers to clean the pads, change oil etc etc. If you are a novice and can just about get the  ignition going and slotting your ride in gear, follow the above tips and ensure you are sticking to the service intervals at the workshop. That should be enough to keep your motorcycle happily chugging along!

Next up -  Riding gear.

Buying a new motorcycle and the pre-delivery inspection

After months of indecision and poring through countless auto magazines, you have finally decided on your dream ride. You have fought for the attention of sales advisors more interested in selling gearless scooters by the dozens, tried making up your mind over barely a km long test ride and changed your mind half a dozen times before deciding on one, only to change it again! You are in the home stretch now and I have a few tips for you which should have you hurtling down the highway on your new ride in no time!

Understand the price break up

As you can see, there are more than one component adding up to the final price you pay. Ex showroom price depends on where in India you are buying a particular model (Enfield bikes for e.g. could be cheaper in Chennai than several other cities as its manufactured there and could escape levies and duties) and road tax, well, you are out of luck there if you are in the highest taxed states like Karnataka, Andhra etc! You can try and get insurance from outside (check with the bank you have an account or a good rapport with) and save a few hundreds there. Tip – Get a zero depreciation insurance, it may add a few hundred to your premium but you will thank yourself in the unfortunate event that you crash the bike – a zero dep add on will ensure you get full settlement for any insurance claim made for repairs (the insurer will typically deduct a percentage of the claim on a standard insurance cover, especially for glass and plastics). Registration expenses include a cut for the dealer – the entire money isn’t spent at the local RTO but most dealers will not agree to part with this, especially for models which are in high demand and usually have a waiting period (All RE models have em) If the dealer is a friend or relative he may waive it for you!

You will be asked to pay a token amount (no cash, always a Demand draft/online transfer) towards booking the motorcycle, and if its one of those models which is available off the shelf and you have enough dough in the bank, it takes a couple of days for your ride to be registered by the dealer and tax paid and you get to take her home. If you need to borrow from the bank then you apply for a loan after you have paid a booking amount and the dealer has assigned you a docket number. If the dealer has the bikes in his stockyard already request to be taken there so that you can pick your ride. If there is a waiting period then ask the service advisor to notify you as soon as fresh dispatches have been made from the factory to your dealer and share the VIN (Vehicle Identification) number with you. Trust me it helps especially for models which command a waiting period; you don’t want to have someone else who’s behind you in the queue to be assigned the bike first. For models which aren’t as hot, decoding the VIN will help you figure out if you are being saddled with stock which has been sitting around with the dealer for ages (while cars and bikes aren’t perishable foodstuff with an expiry date, anything which has been lying around for more than 6 months should pique your curiosity – in addition, engine oil, even unused, tends to degrade over time, so do most other fluids. The rubber in the tyre also hardens over time)

Shop around for the best deal if you have to take a loan, banks may run offers for certain models from time to time. Its always a good idea to pay as much as you can upfront and keep the amount borrowed to a minimum – you save on the interest cost.

The pre-delivery inspection (PDI) and taking your ride home :)

This is usually the most neglected part of the purchase process. We are often too excited at the prospect of getting our hands on our ride and that coupled with the rush that any typical dealership sees on any given day (save Yamaha dealerships :P) means that an occasion, which should be special for the buyer, is reduced to little more than a bunch of papers and a set of keys changing hands. While the ceremony may not dazzle you, stand your ground and get at least a basic PDI done. While most motorcycles (especially the Japanese) have come a long way since the days of dripping oil and snapping cables, its not unheard of for bikes rolling off dealerships to be low on coolant, chains not adjusted correctly, electrical issues. Having been through the experience of buying a new car as well as a motorcycle, I understand that most are not able to get all the boxes in the PDI list checked, it simply isn’t problem. Hence am listing the absolutely essential ones that you need to check. If anything is amiss, insist that they fix it right away (could be as drastic as replacing the bike altogether) or in case it’s a cosmetic issue, have it documented that they will fix it in the first service. Its your hard earned money after all!

• ·        A close visual inspection of the bike, any nicks or scratches, any signs of rusting, anything dangling, looking out of place, paint imperfections etc
• ·        Check and ensure all electricals like headlamps, pass light switch, horns, indicators, brake light etc are functional
• ·        Check the chain slack (ask the sales advisor if not sure) and ensure its neither too tight nor too loose – you don’t want the chain of your new ride slapping along as you ride her for the first time
• ·        Check all fluids i.e. Engine oil level (critical), coolant level, front and rear brake oil level (check the oil window on the handlebar and below the tank
• ·        Start the bike and notice how the engine idles, while you don’t have to verify the idling speed from the manual just yet, listen to how the engine sounds, you would be able to tell if something is amiss
• ·        Sit on the bike, depress the clutch level and slot the engine into first (the shifts are expected to be a tad hard on a new bike) and pop the clutch. Try both the front and the rear brakes. Look out for any odd noise
• ·        Ensure that you have two keysets and one of them has the unique serial number embossed onto a small metal tag (you will need this if you lose the keys), vehicle invoice with details of payments made, original tax token (Registration smart card arrives a month later directly from RTO), insurance cover note, owner’s manual including the service booklet and the vehicle toolkit. Ensure that your name and address appear accurately in all documents.
• Tip – Find out the details of the service centre and if possible, the contact number of the service advisor. You will need it and soon since most bikes have their first service by the end of the first month. Understand the warranty policy in detail (most come with a 2 year/20-30k kms period) and what could make you lose it.
• ·        Dealers will leave just enough fuel in the bike for you to make it to the nearest fuel pump, check the gauge and get it refueled right away, especially if it’s a fuel injected model. Also check the tire pressure at the same time

Carry a box of sweets with you for the staff at the dealership on D-Day and be patient and polite. You may be jumping in excitement but for them, its another day, another customer in a job which pays little. Build a rapport with them, it will come in handy should you have any warranty claims later down the line. Don’t forget to carry at least a helmet (two if you have a friend accompanying you – more on basic riding gear in the next article) and a valid driver’s license. Oh, and don’t forget a good camera, I was so excited that I just had my crappy phone camera to fall back on. That FB profile pic with you on the saddle should be good enough for a hundred likes!

Next up – Running in and caring for your ride.

The fun part - shopping for your ride

You may already have a commuter bike that belts out a heart pumping 8bhp (!), or been handed down the family heirloom – a vintage Bullet with a cast iron engine which marks its territory by leaving a puddle of oil behind but produces a thump that can be heard a mile away. If it’s neither, then the list below will at least tell you where to start looking for your first ride. I have covered bikes with an engine capacity of at least 150 cc and are considered to be at the entry level of the sports bike segment (no Ninja, Truimph, Harley etc) with a price tag ranging from just under a lakh – 1.5.My comments, apart from my own experience, also reflect opinions of fellow bikers and are in no way biased towards any of the brands below

The Bajaj Pulsar RS/AS 150/200cc

Simply put, the Pulsar lineup brought ‘sports biking’ to the masses. With its masculine appearance, 150cc engine (at the time of launch) bassy grunt of the torquey engine, Bajaj has come a long way with the Pulsars with the latest AS/RS avataars featuring contemporary tech like liquid cooling and a perimeter frame for better handling. The engine block is borrowed from the KTM Duke (whose bikes Bajaj now manufactures in India) which at 200cc revvs freely, belting out an impressive 24 horses setting the new age Pulsars apart from their older siblings. The pricing makes it compelling for those with less than a lakh to spend even though the fuel injected RS with front ABS retails for well over a lakh.

Pros

Competitive price, wide service network, low cost of ownership, single channel ABS on the RS

Cons

Quality still leagues behind the Japanese, Bajaj sales and service experience not up to the mark

The TVS Apache 160/180/200

While the Pulsar is known for its masculinity, the Apache manufactured by TVS is known for its nimble handling, be it on the roads or on the racetrack. The Apache 180 was also the first indian motorcycle to feature a single channel ABS (front only) While fast and agile, the engine is vibration prone and the TVS tyres are not the best when it comes to grip. The latest Apache offering which comes with a 200cc engine addresses some of these problems and has a good road presence while still lacking liquid cooling and a 6 speed gearbox. An ABS + Fuel injected variant is in the pipeline and should be available soon.

Pros

Light, nimble and fast, single channel ABS on the 180, competitive price

Cons

5 Speed gearbox makes highway rides stressful for the engine, vibey engine

The KTM Duke 200

One paragraph may be inadequate to do justice to the impact the Austrian made (in collaboration with Bajaj) KTM Duke 200/390 cc bikes have had on the local motorcycling scene. Introducing cutting edge technology like liquid cooling and a trellis frame for sublime handling, all at a mouthwatering price, the Indian biker has never had it so good. The 390 offers life saving features like ABS and super soft Metzeler tyres for better grip in addition to its brutal 43 horses at less than a lakh over its smaller 200cc sibling. For someone looking for his first ride with a lakh and a half to splurge, the KTM Duke 200 is simply a hoot to ride for a small premium over the others in the comparo.

Pros – Cutting edge tech, 25 PS engine on the 200, mean street fighter looks

Cons – Pricey now at 1.6 l on road, power delivery is manic – difficult to handle for novice riders, no ABS on the 200

Yamaha R15 V2/S

This is the model which gave India its first taste of what a track bred bike is really like. The legendary Yamaha Deltabox chassis available on Motogp bikes, was made available to the masses on this 150cc bike. That, in addition to liquid cooling, fuel injection and sticky tyres, were all industry firsts when the V1 was launched in 2008. The next iteration (V2 in 2011) and the latest S (single seat) included updates like tweaking the engine for better low end grunt to aid city commute, fatter rear tyres and reintroducing the single seat for pillion comfort. With the launch of its bigger sibling the R3 (321cc twin cylinder) the R15 has been firmly positioned as the entry level sports option. While overshadowed by faster rivals like the KTM Duke, the baby R is perhaps the best beginners motorcycle in the premium segment (I own one!) At more than 1.3 lakh it carries a premium but its bulletproof engine and built to last quality makes up for the price. It’s a very forgiving bike – combines sublime handling with adequate power delivered in a linear manner – encouraging new riders to get deeper into motorcycling by expanding their skills in relative safety. Take a test ride before plonking your money though as the supersport riding stance stresses the wrists and lower back; initial discomfort is experienced by many riders and some do not get used to it.

Pros – Sublime handling, Jap reliability, linear power delivery

Cons – Riding comfort, relative lack of power, premium pricing for a 150cc bike

CRUISERS

The Bajaj Avenger Cruise/Street 150/220cc

The only affordable option (read ex showroom of less than 1 lakh) among cruisers and one which has proven its mettle both in the city as well as in the unforgiving terrain of Ladakh. The latest iteration features both an 150cc option apart from the grunty 220cc one with the ‘street’ variant looking like an outright copy of the much bigger (and pricier) Harley Davidson Street 750. Nevertheless, they do the job and are particularly suitable for shorter riders (given its low slung setup) Despite being a cruiser, its relatively light at 154 kgs and that makes for easy weaving through city traffic (the street version) The longer wheelbase also makes for highway cruising at decent speeds even though the engine is at its happiest at 80/90 kmph and can return an impressive mileage of >40 kmpl. The technology however, hasn’t kept pace and the Avenger still sports tubed tyres in regular spoked wheels (tubeless ones do not go flat right away if there is a puncture and is better for touring) and lacks liquid cooling for its engine. It is also not as niggle free as is the case with Bajaj bikes.

The Royal Enfield Bullet/Classic/Thunderbird 350

Entire chapters may fall short in doing justice to the Royal enfield stable, hence I will not delve much in the lone paragraph that I am dedicating to this legendary brand. This is the motorcycle most budding bikers flock to, given pull of the brand. All I would say is that if you are hooked to the ‘Bullet’ legend and your rides will be restricted to short weekend breakfast jaunts, stop reading this and head to the nearest RE dealership and choose which shade of chrome catches your fancy. While this is not to say that the models can’t do heavy duty highway trips – an RE is perhaps the ideal option in Ladakh, I am more inclined to evaluate the RE models as what kind of bikes they are and not the spell they have cast on their followers. For starters, they are heavy and bulky at 180+ kgs and the 350cc ones are downright underpowered. Throw in the reliability issues (niggles though are far fewer in the new age UCE models) and lack of modern technology (liquid cooling? Whats that?) and all of a sudden, the price (the cheapest one – Electra - with at least a front disc brake and electric start retails for 1.3 l) does not make any sense. There is little handling to speak of (with a single downtube frame chassis), brakes are wooden (ensure you have decent riding gear and a valid medical insurance if you ride north of 70 kmph) and the vibrations will make your teeth chatter with the engine protesting if you take it beyond 80 (hence my point about long highway rides being a mixed bag) Touring is lot better on the Thunderbird (TB) 350 which is more of an American style cruiser and not an authentic Bullet with better handling and a bigger fuel tank. It still has the same vibey engine and at 1.6+ lakhs on road, you have far better options out there. The 500cc options provide more power and they are fuel injected (except for the carbed Bullet 500) but fare worse in the reliability department than their carbureted siblings. At 2+ lakhs, I do not recommend the 500 lineup unless you have experienced RE bikes before and of course, with cash to burn.

As I had said, a para can hardly put to rest the Royal Enfield debate and here I am, launching a second paragraph and spilling more ink than I have on the others. A brand cult is more powerful than any feature or piece of technology and if you are hooked, you will care two hoots about the metal bulk and ancient drum brakes on RE bikes. If that is the case, please take the plunge as motorcycling is all about connecting with your ride. However, if the purchase decision is also about the head as much as the heart, ignore all generic statements about the great ‘Bullet’ you are likely to hear and weigh the pros and cons and how they fit with your needs.

Honda CBR 250/150

I will not delve deep into the baby ceeber - a smaller replica of the legendary VFR 1000 – for the simple reason that the 250 retails for almost 2 lakhs – out of scope of this article and the supersport like 150 variant is not a viable option when you have the R15 around, a reality reflected in sales figures. However, if touring is the objective and you can spare the additional cash, the CBR 250 comes out on top: comfortable seating, plush suspension, adequate power and the bomb proof Honda engine, all come together in this bike on which many highway touring records have been broken. If you can, pay the additional premium and get the one with the ABS option; it really does not make sense to pay almost 2 big ones anyways and not have this lifesaving option.

Eventually, specs and opinions remain on paper and test rides is what should clinch the deal for you. Some models (the Yamaha R15 for eg) are not made available for test rides by the dealers while the guys at RE would be only too happy to let you test ride as many models as you want. Be ready to walk away if you don’t get to sample at least a few kms, at least by borrowing from a friend, its you who would have to live with the bike after all. Finally, purchasing is a one time event, getting your ride serviced is not - find out the service intervals and what it costs as its not just the one time purchase price but the overall cost of ownership which will pinch your pocket. The R15 has a 70 day service interval, most of the others every 6 months, find out how much a typical service costs for each model.

Research from other sources too and sites like these will give you more information, but as I said, the proof of the pudding is in the eating!

Next up, a guide on formalities at the dealership and a pre-delivery inspection.