I was always at home behind the wheels of a 4 wheeler, until I wanted to push the boundaries a tad harder and being fighting fit (I run marathons) I felt I was ready to take on the world in a sportsbike, no less! So what if it weighted in at a puny 150 cc and so my foray into the world of 2 wheels started http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...ngle-seat.html (Flies like a butterfly, stings like a bee! My Yamaha R15S, now with a single seat) Having chosen this hobby fairly late in life and skipped the mandatory Pulsars, boxers, Splendors etc to opt for a sportsbike at the get go (even though the R15 is a fantastic motorcycle to start learning on and now with the single rider friendly seat back, is also pillion friendly and rider happy) I approached this methodically and ensured that I had all the mandatory riding gear in place. In due course, I also became part of one of the riding groups in Bangalore, incidentally one where being a TBHP member is a prerequisite. The group is known as TBBB with the members being as proficient in bakar on Whatsapp as they are passionate about biking My riding skills improved as I rode with guys who have been riding for decades and have graduated from small bikes to big bad ones. Did a few overnighters with them and also did a long solo ride from Bangalore to Goa to test my confidence and temperament. All of this started to whet my appetite to do something which pushes the boundaries. I have been planning to do a roadtrip to Ladakh for the last two years which kept getting thwarted for one reason or the other. The plan was to initially drive my K10 up there and I was determined that I would do it this year no matter what. While the initial plan was to still drive, given that now I had the bike, I started tinkering with the idea of riding my motorcycle up. I was skeptical however as anybody who has owned the R15 or ridden one would know that the last thing its known for riding comfort. I was apprehensive even while buying it as was not sure how my shoulders and wrists would take the punishment of the aggressive riding position, the stiff suspension and the narrow, bench like seat. Thankfully, over a period of time and after the initial agony, I got used to the riding position and enjoyed the supreme confidence the motorcycle provides even to a rookie rider like me. However, we are talking about a journey of a few thousand kms over many days. I did not want to truck the bike up to Delhi or Chandigarh; felt that it diluted the challenge of doing a solo trip to the Himalayas and this would also give me an excuse to explore the 'central highway', sparsely populated with little traffic. A number of developments kept me occupied in the run up to the trip and we were already in September with time fast running out to do a trip to Ladakh, given that Rohtang passshuts down by October. At one point, I almost put the trip on hold and do a long east india trip culminating in Bhutan/Sikkim. I could not take out more than a maximum of 10 days and anything less than 3 weeks does not do justice to Ladakh. It was finally down to my impulsive nature, perhaps something would trigger the restless soul in me to kickstart the comatose trip at the last moment. It did and also proved to be my undoing which almost cost me my life Trip to Spiti enters the equation. This option was largely unknown to me as Ladakh dominates the discourse on exotic destinations. Reading through travelogues on websites like team bhp proved most helpful and gave me an indepth insight of what to expect. I had alre made a rough plan to Leh to which this one was added. I decided to postpone the final decision until after Delhi as I knew it would be a helluva trip to make it to Delhi alone riding the baby R. As a last resort, in case I ran out of steam by Agra, I decided that I would ride up to Corbett as a face saver and come back. Got the bike serviced with the oil replaced and the fluids topped up. Also bought a spare clutch cable and a bottle of Yamalube for topups. The V2 and S comes with a spare throttle cable already attached. Was glad to learn that the brake pads still had enough life left in them. Bought myself a magnetic tank bag from NH4 motorheads and decided to use a gymbag strapped to the pillion seat by bungee cords. Had already decided to travel as light as possible with just a change of clothes in addition to a small P&S camera, my trusty Nexus tablet to be used as a navigation device and a powerbank. Also crammed a swiss army knife, screwdrivers and small torch into the tankbag.
Sunday, January 15, 2017
Wednesday, September 14, 2016
Caring for your ride
Now that you finally have your ride, I bet people are
catching you just standing by and admiring it like a schoolboy checking out the
hot neighborhood babe. It happens and you should savor the indescribable
feeling of owning a gleaming set of wheels. Now to deal with the boring bit
(not for me though as I love to read, even if it is an instruction manual!) go
through the owner’s manual from cover to cover and make a mental note of the
important bits, namely the service intervals and the maintenance tips that
owners should follow to keep their rides as good as new.
Running in
This is a contentious topic in biking circles and some
believe that modern machines come run in from the factories and you can go TWO
(throttle wide open) from the get go. Many though still swear by the time
honored tradition of putting the machine through its paces by going easy on the
throttle for the first few thousand on the odo and let the mating parts of the
engine, brakes, tires and other components bed in.
If this happens properly, you should have an engine which runs smoother and
lasts longer with optimum fuel efficiency and performance. While I have
appended some links at the end of this post on the whole running in business,
my advice to you is to follow what the instruction manual says about running in
to the T, nothing more and nothing less. After all, the manufacturer who made
the machine is expected to know it best and crucially, it makes much easier
should any warranty claim arise in the future. Below is a snapshot of the
running in section from my Yamaha R15 manual. Its pretty simple and easy to
follow and most contemporary bikes will have a similar process. If you want to
take a leaf out of my book, while I stuck to the engine RPM limits (tachometer) and speeds for the most part, I was not
shy of opening the throttle (albeit for short bursts) and giving her the stick
once in a while. Especially for high revving sports bikes, I feel it helps for
the engine to explore the upper reaches of the powerband in the initial kms,
the trick is not to overdo it. Ensure that you do a mix of highway+city+ghat (if
you are lucky to be living in Bangalore/Pune) riding as it exposes the bike to
different riding conditions with frequent speed variations and gear changes.
Once the running in period is complete as per the manual, its TWO time!
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/owning-car/67729-article-how-run-your-new-car.html
http://www.motorcycleextremist.com/Motorcycle-Engine-Break-in-the-Right-Way!.html
Caring for your ride
This is a comprehensive topic and for the finicky lot (myself
included) no amount of TLC is enough for their precious rides. Go ahead and
indulge yourself if you have the time and passion to spare but the following
quick tips and the links below should keep your machine ticking over for many
miles.
Engine oil and fuel
Again the owner’s manual should be the bible here. Ensure
that you are sticking to the grade specified by
the manual (the service centre will ensure this at least for the initial free
servicing but push pricey options in the same grade – politely decline if your
budget does not permit) A pricey synthetic
option over regular mineral ones (same grade) is not mandatory unless the
manual specifies, especially if the service intervals are frequent (synthetics last longer). In fact,
given an option, its best to run on mineral for the first 8 – 10k kms and then
switch to synthetic as it may result in a better run in engine. Be particular
about the drain intervals: apart from ensuring warranty, all modern engines ask
of you is to have the oil replaced periodically - not doing that is sacrilege.
Most manuals will specify both distance and time (3/6 months) intervals for the next
service: do not neglect this even if you haven’t
clocked enough on the odo as oil starts degrading the moment its poured inside
the engine and needs to be replaced if the time interval is achieved, irrespective of the distance completed. Moving on to the topic of fuel (petrol or gasoline in this case) I don’t need to tell you how critical it is to run on clean stuff.
While we do not oversee the refining and transportation of the stuff to fuel
pumps, we can certainly choose which pump to go to, at least in the city.
If a pump looks deserted most of the time or something looks amiss, its usually
for a good reason – there are certain fuel pumps in all cities which are
notorious for peddling adulterated fuel or cheating customers by short fueling
tricks. Look for COCO (company
owned company operated) outlets of any of the state owned refineries; I have a
preferred set of pumps in my city where I generally refuel from and go with my
eyes closed to any Shell outlet anywhere (for those living in Bangalore, Pune and
Chennai) Look for the bigger outlets while hitting the highways. Don’t wait for
the fuel tank to go into reserve before refueling, refuel the moment the level
drops below 25% capacity. Running on fumes is the quickest way to fry your fuel
pump (in a fuel injected model) needing a costly replacement.
Cleaning and lubing the bike and the drive chain
If you care for your ride the least that you would do is to
give it a good wash and often, and that’s partly because its pretty much the
only thing that does not need expertise, or so we think. Washing (or hosing it
down as some do) a motorcycle is different from washing a car; a bike
(especially performance ones) is an exposed piece of machinery with everything
from the drive chain to the radiator (for liquid cooled ones) to the wires
running down the instrument cluster, in plain view and open to the elements.
While our rides are ‘waterproof’ to an extent and they can happily ride through
rain and slush, they are not designed to withstand modern pressure washers
which can wreak havoc with the delicate radiator fins for example, by bending
them and fouling with the electrical systems. Be gentle, use a couple of
buckets of water (one for the soap water and the other with clean water to rinse the
sponge in) with branded car shampoo (no detergents or household cleaners please as they are not formulated for use on automotive paint surfaces), sponge and a microfiber cloth to
rinse off the damp surface. Do not do this often (I do it once a fortnight or
when the bike gets really dirty) since you may do more damage to painted
surfaces by leaving swirl marks if you are not doing it right and wash and dry
in the shade as direct sunlight will leave water spots since it will dry water faster than
you can pat it down with a cloth. Do not wash immediately after a hard ride; wait for the bike to cool down to avoid splashing water on a hot
engine and start the bike after you are through with the wash and wipe ritual to drive out any residual moisture.
Most manuals advise that the chain be cleaned and lubed every 500 kms and as I
had mentioned earlier, its always good to follow what the manual says. As for
me, since I live in Bangalore and my bike sees more highways and ghats with
perfect tarmac than dustbowls, I tend to clean the chain every 1000 kms and
apply lube every 500 kms or if it seems dry/have been ridden in the rains. Modern
day ‘O-ring’ type chains come with lubricant
inside the rollers sealed from the factory, but the joints between links still
need to be lubed.
Tip – You can combine the chain cleaning + lubing process along
with your bike washing ritual. Spray the chain cleaner/wipe the chain with
kerosene or similar solvent before washing the bike. Take the bike out for a
quick spin after washing so that the chain is warm (helps in absorbing the lube
inside the rings as the chain cools - you will waste precious lube by spraying it onto a cold chain), ensure that you put the bike on the centre/paddock stand and turn the ignition off before you start lubing – this
is important as many a finger have been lost while lubing the chain
with the engine in gear! Spray the lube lightly (or use gear oil if you are on
a budget – you can apply it with a thin paint brush) directly on the O rings
and leave the bike parked for a few hours (preferably overnight) for the lube
to seep in. A dry chain will make for a noisy ride and will also wear your
sprocket out in addition to wearing themselves out sooner. I use Yamalube/Motul chain cleaner and lube (sold separately). There are several brands available and you can pick one which suits your budget. Do wear protective gardening gloves while handling the chain!
The better informed amongst us also adjust the chain slack, take apart the brake calipers to clean the pads, change oil etc etc. If you are a novice and can just about get the ignition going and slotting your ride in gear, follow the above tips and ensure you are sticking to the service intervals at the workshop. That should be enough to keep your motorcycle happily chugging along!
Next up - Riding gear.
Monday, September 12, 2016
Buying a new motorcycle and the pre-delivery inspection
After months of indecision and poring through
countless auto magazines, you have finally decided on your dream ride. You have
fought for the attention of sales advisors more interested in selling gearless
scooters by the dozens, tried making up your mind over barely a km long test
ride and changed your mind half a dozen times before deciding on one, only to
change it again! You are in the home stretch now and I have a few tips for you
which should have you hurtling down the highway on your new ride in no time!
Understand the price break up
As you can see, there are more than one component
adding up to the final price you pay. Ex showroom price depends on where in
India you are buying a particular model (Enfield bikes for e.g. could be
cheaper in Chennai than several other cities as its manufactured there and
could escape levies and duties) and road tax, well, you are out of luck there
if you are in the highest taxed states like Karnataka, Andhra etc! You can try
and get insurance from outside (check with the bank you have an account or a
good rapport with) and save a few hundreds there. Tip – Get a zero depreciation insurance, it may add a
few hundred to your premium but you will thank yourself in the unfortunate
event that you crash the bike – a zero dep add on will ensure you get full
settlement for any insurance claim made for repairs (the insurer will typically deduct a percentage of the claim on a standard insurance cover, especially for glass and plastics).
Registration expenses include a cut for the dealer – the entire money isn’t spent
at the local RTO but most dealers will not agree to part with this, especially
for models which are in high demand and usually have a waiting period (All RE
models have em) If the dealer is a friend or relative he may waive it for you!
You will be asked to pay a token amount (no cash, always a
Demand draft/online transfer) towards booking the motorcycle, and if its one of
those models which is available off the shelf and you have enough dough in the
bank, it takes a couple of days for your ride to be registered by the dealer
and tax paid and you get to take her home. If you need to borrow from the bank
then you apply for a loan after you have paid a booking amount and the dealer
has assigned you a docket number. If the dealer has the bikes in his stockyard
already request to be taken there so that you can pick your ride. If there is a
waiting period then ask the service advisor to notify you as soon as fresh dispatches
have been made from the factory to your dealer and share the VIN (Vehicle Identification) number with you. Trust
me it helps especially for models which command a waiting period; you don’t want
to have someone else who’s behind you in the queue to be assigned the bike
first. For models which aren’t as hot, decoding the VIN will help you figure
out if you are being saddled with stock which has been sitting around with the
dealer for ages (while cars and bikes aren’t perishable foodstuff with an
expiry date, anything which has been lying around for more than 6 months should
pique your curiosity – in addition, engine oil, even unused, tends to degrade
over time, so do most other fluids. The rubber in the tyre also hardens over
time)
Shop around for the best deal if you have to take a loan, banks
may run offers for certain models from time to time. Its always a good idea to
pay as much as you can upfront and keep the amount borrowed to a minimum – you save
on the interest cost.
The pre-delivery inspection (PDI) and taking your ride home :)
This is usually the most neglected part of the purchase
process. We are often too excited at the prospect of getting our hands on our
ride and that coupled with the rush that any typical dealership sees on any
given day (save Yamaha dealerships :P) means that an occasion, which should be
special for the buyer, is reduced to little more than a bunch of papers and a
set of keys changing hands. While the ceremony may not dazzle you, stand your
ground and get at least a basic PDI done. While most motorcycles (especially
the Japanese) have come a long way since the days of dripping oil and snapping
cables, its not unheard of for bikes rolling off dealerships to be low on
coolant, chains not adjusted correctly, electrical issues. Having been through
the experience of buying a new car as well as a motorcycle, I understand that
most are not able to get all the boxes in the PDI list checked, it simply isn’t
problem. Hence am listing the absolutely essential ones that you need to check.
If anything is amiss, insist that they fix it right away (could be as drastic
as replacing the bike altogether) or in case it’s a cosmetic issue, have it documented
that they will fix it in the first service. Its your hard earned money after
all!
- · A close visual inspection of the bike, any nicks or scratches, any signs of rusting, anything dangling, looking out of place, paint imperfections etc
- · Check and ensure all electricals like headlamps, pass light switch, horns, indicators, brake light etc are functional
- · Check the chain slack (ask the sales advisor if not sure) and ensure its neither too tight nor too loose – you don’t want the chain of your new ride slapping along as you ride her for the first time
- · Check all fluids i.e. Engine oil level (critical), coolant level, front and rear brake oil level (check the oil window on the handlebar and below the tank
- · Start the bike and notice how the engine idles, while you don’t have to verify the idling speed from the manual just yet, listen to how the engine sounds, you would be able to tell if something is amiss
- · Sit on the bike, depress the clutch level and slot the engine into first (the shifts are expected to be a tad hard on a new bike) and pop the clutch. Try both the front and the rear brakes. Look out for any odd noise
- · Ensure that you have two keysets and one of them has the unique serial number embossed onto a small metal tag (you will need this if you lose the keys), vehicle invoice with details of payments made, original tax token (Registration smart card arrives a month later directly from RTO), insurance cover note, owner’s manual including the service booklet and the vehicle toolkit. Ensure that your name and address appear accurately in all documents.
- Tip – Find out the details of the service centre and if possible, the contact number of the service advisor. You will need it and soon since most bikes have their first service by the end of the first month. Understand the warranty policy in detail (most come with a 2 year/20-30k kms period) and what could make you lose it.
- · Dealers will leave just enough fuel in the bike for you to make it to the nearest fuel pump, check the gauge and get it refueled right away, especially if it’s a fuel injected model. Also check the tire pressure at the same time
Carry a box of sweets with you for the staff at the
dealership on D-Day and be patient and polite. You may be jumping in excitement
but for them, its another day, another customer in a job which pays little.
Build a rapport with them, it will come in handy should you have any warranty
claims later down the line. Don’t forget to carry at least a helmet (two if you
have a friend accompanying you – more on basic riding gear in the next article)
and a valid driver’s license. Oh, and don’t forget a good camera, I was so
excited that I just had my crappy phone camera to fall back on. That FB profile
pic with you on the saddle should be good enough for a hundred likes!
Next up – Running in and caring for your ride.
Saturday, September 10, 2016
The fun part - shopping for your ride
You may already have a commuter bike that belts
out a heart pumping 8bhp (!), or been handed down the family heirloom – a vintage
Bullet with a cast iron engine which marks its territory by leaving a puddle of
oil behind but produces a thump that can be heard a mile away. If it’s neither,
then the list below will at least tell you where to start looking for your
first ride. I have covered bikes with an engine capacity of at least 150 cc and
are considered to be at the entry level of the sports bike segment (no Ninja,
Truimph, Harley etc) with a price tag ranging from just under a lakh – 1.5.My
comments, apart from my own experience, also reflect opinions of fellow bikers and
are in no way biased towards any of the brands below
The Bajaj Pulsar RS/AS 150/200cc
Simply put, the Pulsar lineup brought ‘sports
biking’ to the masses. With its masculine appearance, 150cc engine (at the time
of launch) bassy grunt of the torquey engine, Bajaj has come a long way with the
Pulsars with the latest AS/RS avataars featuring contemporary tech like liquid
cooling and a perimeter frame for better handling. The engine block is borrowed
from the KTM Duke (whose bikes Bajaj now manufactures in India) which at 200cc
revvs freely, belting out an impressive 24 horses setting the new age Pulsars
apart from their older siblings. The pricing makes it compelling for those with
less than a lakh to spend even though the fuel injected RS with front ABS
retails for well over a lakh.
Pros
Competitive price, wide service network, low cost
of ownership, single channel ABS on the RS
Cons
Quality still leagues behind the Japanese, Bajaj
sales and service experience not up to the mark
The TVS Apache 160/180/200
While the Pulsar is known for its masculinity,
the Apache manufactured by TVS is known for its nimble handling, be it on the
roads or on the racetrack. The Apache 180 was also the first indian motorcycle
to feature a single channel ABS (front only) While fast and agile, the engine
is vibration prone and the TVS tyres are not the best when it comes to grip.
The latest Apache offering which comes with a 200cc engine addresses some of
these problems and has a good road presence while still lacking liquid cooling
and a 6 speed gearbox. An ABS + Fuel injected variant is in the pipeline and
should be available soon.
Pros
Light, nimble and fast, single channel ABS on the
180, competitive price
Cons
5 Speed gearbox makes highway rides stressful for
the engine, vibey engine
The KTM Duke 200
One paragraph may be inadequate to do justice to
the impact the Austrian made (in collaboration with Bajaj) KTM Duke 200/390 cc
bikes have had on the local motorcycling scene. Introducing cutting edge
technology like liquid cooling and a trellis frame for sublime handling, all at
a mouthwatering price, the Indian biker has never had it so good. The 390
offers life saving features like ABS and super soft Metzeler tyres for better
grip in addition to its brutal 43 horses at less than a lakh over its smaller
200cc sibling. For someone looking for his first ride with a lakh and a half to
splurge, the KTM Duke 200 is simply a hoot to ride for a small premium over the
others in the comparo.
Pros – Cutting edge tech, 25 PS engine on the 200,
mean street fighter looks
Cons – Pricey now at 1.6 l on road, power
delivery is manic – difficult to handle for novice riders, no ABS on the 200
Yamaha R15 V2/S
This is the model which gave India its first
taste of what a track bred bike is really like. The legendary Yamaha Deltabox
chassis available on Motogp bikes, was made available to the masses on this
150cc bike. That, in addition to liquid cooling, fuel injection and sticky tyres, were all
industry firsts when the V1 was launched in 2008. The next iteration (V2 in 2011) and the latest S (single seat) included updates like tweaking the engine
for better low end grunt to aid city commute, fatter rear tyres and reintroducing the
single seat for pillion comfort. With the launch of its bigger sibling the R3
(321cc twin cylinder) the R15 has been firmly positioned as the entry level
sports option. While overshadowed by faster rivals like the KTM Duke, the baby
R is perhaps the best beginners motorcycle in the premium segment (I own
one!) At more than 1.3 lakh it carries a premium but its bulletproof engine and
built to last quality makes up for the price. It’s a very forgiving bike –
combines sublime handling with adequate power delivered in a linear manner – encouraging
new riders to get deeper into motorcycling by expanding their skills in
relative safety. Take a test ride before plonking your money though as the
supersport riding stance stresses the wrists and lower back; initial discomfort
is experienced by many riders and some do not get used to it.
Pros – Sublime handling, Jap reliability, linear
power delivery
Cons – Riding comfort, relative lack of power,
premium pricing for a 150cc bike
CRUISERS
The Bajaj Avenger Cruise/Street 150/220cc
The only affordable option (read ex showroom of
less than 1 lakh) among cruisers and one which has proven its mettle both in
the city as well as in the unforgiving terrain of Ladakh. The latest iteration
features both an 150cc option apart from the grunty 220cc one with the ‘street’
variant looking like an outright copy of the much bigger (and pricier) Harley
Davidson Street 750. Nevertheless, they do the job and are particularly
suitable for shorter riders (given its low slung setup) Despite being a cruiser,
its relatively light at 154 kgs and that makes for easy weaving through city
traffic (the street version) The longer wheelbase also makes for highway
cruising at decent speeds even though the engine is at its happiest at 80/90
kmph and can return an impressive mileage of >40 kmpl. The technology
however, hasn’t kept pace and the Avenger still sports tubed tyres in regular
spoked wheels (tubeless ones do not go flat right away if there is a puncture
and is better for touring) and lacks liquid cooling for its engine. It is also
not as niggle free as is the case with Bajaj bikes.
The Royal Enfield Bullet/Classic/Thunderbird 350
Entire chapters may fall short in doing justice
to the Royal enfield stable, hence I will not delve much in the lone paragraph
that I am dedicating to this legendary brand. This is the motorcycle most budding
bikers flock to, given pull of the brand. All I would say is that if you are
hooked to the ‘Bullet’ legend and your rides will be restricted to short
weekend breakfast jaunts, stop reading this and head to the nearest RE
dealership and choose which shade of chrome catches your fancy. While this is
not to say that the models can’t do heavy duty highway trips – an RE is perhaps
the ideal option in Ladakh, I am more inclined to evaluate the RE models as
what kind of bikes they are and not the spell they have cast on their followers.
For starters, they are heavy and bulky at 180+ kgs and the 350cc ones are
downright underpowered. Throw in the reliability issues (niggles though are far
fewer in the new age UCE models) and lack of modern technology (liquid cooling?
Whats that?) and all of a sudden, the price (the cheapest one – Electra - with
at least a front disc brake and electric start retails for 1.3 l) does not make
any sense. There is little handling to speak of (with a single downtube frame
chassis), brakes are wooden (ensure you have decent riding gear and a valid
medical insurance if you ride north of 70 kmph) and the vibrations will make
your teeth chatter with the engine protesting if you take it beyond 80 (hence
my point about long highway rides being a mixed bag) Touring is lot better on
the Thunderbird (TB) 350 which is more of an American style cruiser and not an
authentic Bullet with better handling and a bigger fuel tank. It still has the
same vibey engine and at 1.6+ lakhs on road, you have far better options out
there. The 500cc options provide more power and they are fuel injected (except
for the carbed Bullet 500) but fare worse in the reliability department than
their carbureted siblings. At 2+ lakhs, I do not recommend the 500 lineup
unless you have experienced RE bikes before and of course, with cash to burn.
As I had said, a para can hardly put to rest the
Royal Enfield debate and here I am, launching a second paragraph and spilling
more ink than I have on the others. A brand cult is more powerful than any
feature or piece of technology and if you are hooked, you will care two hoots
about the metal bulk and ancient drum brakes on RE bikes. If that is the case,
please take the plunge as motorcycling is all about connecting with your ride.
However, if the purchase decision is also about the head as much as the heart,
ignore all generic statements about the great ‘Bullet’ you are likely to hear
and weigh the pros and cons and how they fit with your needs.
Honda CBR 250/150
I will not delve deep into the baby ceeber - a
smaller replica of the legendary VFR 1000 – for the simple reason that the 250 retails
for almost 2 lakhs – out of scope of this article and the supersport like 150
variant is not a viable option when you have the R15 around, a reality
reflected in sales figures. However, if touring is the objective and you can spare the
additional cash, the CBR 250 comes out on top: comfortable seating,
plush suspension, adequate power and the bomb proof Honda engine, all come
together in this bike on which many highway touring records have been broken.
If you can, pay the additional premium and get the one with the ABS option; it
really does not make sense to pay almost 2 big ones anyways and not have this
lifesaving option.
Eventually, specs and opinions remain on paper
and test rides is what should clinch the deal for you. Some models (the Yamaha
R15 for eg) are not made available for test rides by the dealers while the guys
at RE would be only too happy to let you test ride as many models as you want.
Be ready to walk away if you don’t get to sample at least a few kms, at least
by borrowing from a friend, its you who would have to live with the bike after
all. Finally, purchasing is a one time event, getting your ride serviced is not - find out the service intervals and what it costs as its not just the one time purchase price but the overall cost of ownership which will pinch your pocket. The R15 has a 70 day service interval, most of the others every 6 months, find out how much a typical service costs for each model.
Research from other sources too and sites like these will give you more information, but as I said, the proof of the pudding is in the eating!
Research from other sources too and sites like these will give you more information, but as I said, the proof of the pudding is in the eating!
Next up, a guide on formalities at the dealership
and a pre-delivery inspection.
Labels:
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